One site detailed the procedure and listed the materials that were used. The person used a two part High performance polyester urethane from Forsch Polymer Corp. I called Forsch and told their technician exactly what I wanted to do with their product, he told me their product has been used by many people to rebuild motor mounts and recommended their medium durometer high tear strength system, 60A with their ADH 1001 urethane to metal primer.

This is one of my original motor mounts, it rough shape, it was still stuck together, the other mount's rubber cushion fell apart when I removed it from the car. I measured the cushion from the other mount to determine the distance of separation of the two parts. I measured about an 1/2" but figure I should add a little to compensate for compression over the last 70 years.

I made a jig/stand out of 1/2" particle board to mount the mounts to. I measured the mounting holes of both the motor side and the frame side and marked and drilled holes in the upright board. I recessed all of the holes so I could fasten the bolts with a nut on the front, keeping the mounting surface of the motor mount flush on the particle board. I used 3/8"x1 1/2" for the motor side and 3/8" threaded rod and nuts to mount the frame side of the motor mount. I used nuts to keep the two pieces separated the correct distance.

As per instructions, I sand blasted the parts so the polyester urethane had a good, clean surface to bond to. The Forsch tech also suggested drilling larger holds in both parts to assure a mechanical bond as well as an adhesion bond. I applied the recommended primer. It brushes on wet but when dry it's almost invisible. I covered all bonding surfaces, including the inside and areas around the holes I drilled.

I bolted the mounts to the stand. I tried to seal off the mounts the best I could so I wouldn't have a lot of spillage and wasted product, I wasn't too successful. I figured one can of urethane should have been enough for both mounts but ended up using one can for just one mount. I used a roll of light weight 6" wide aluminum roof flashing and plumber's putty to seal the mounts. I was only able to do one and it was a mess, for the second one I will do better. I also used cardboard to seal the inside cavity of the mount, this is where all of my leakage occurred. I lined the cardboard with plastic packing tape to prevent the urethane from sticking to it, it worked pretty good. The flashing peeled off fairly easy without coating it.

Here are the results. Not very pretty but they're going to be under the car getting greasy and dirty and no one will ever see them. They'll also look a lot better with a coat of black paint on them. I had to do some trimming of the urethane and had a little difficulty separating the mount from the stand but it wasn't all that hard. Well worth the $150 savings and being able to say I was able to do another job on my car myself.

I recently cast the remaining rear mount and the bottom and top parts of the front mounts.

Because the front mount trays were pretty beat up I built new ones.