Mounting a 48-52 F-2/F-3 body onto a 74-79 F-250 Supercab Frame
By: Nathan Sampson- AKA 51dueller
Every once in a while we get a post in the 48-60 forum about putting their truck body
onto a newer frame. There are several people that have but they are mainly the 53-56
series truck and are pretty much undocumented. That is an easier swap since the frame
is 34" front to back while our 48-52 goes from 32" to 34". A lot of people use a frame
from a 65-72 since it has a 34" width and is easily upgraded to disc brakes and power
steering. The problem with that frame is the bed will sit 3" higher if you mount the
cab the same way I did but you can make it work by raising the cab. Now here comes
why I used a '78 F-250 Supercab frame, it comes with factory disc brakes, power steering
and has the same frame shape as the 67-72 but since it's a extended cab truck the frame
is long enough to cut out the 3" raised portion. The main difference is the 73-79 frames
widened out to 37.5" in the rear which I will show you how to fix later on. When this
article is done you will have a good riding truck that will sit about stock height. If
you want to have your truck sitting 2" off the ground you are better off with IFS from
one of the many aftermarket suppliers. The difficulty of this project is 8.5 on a scale
of 10. It will take about 150 to 250 hours depending on your skill level.
3/8 and 1/2 socket sets up to 1 1/4"
Wrenches to 1 1/4"
Reciprocating saw with blades rated for metal over 1/4"
4-5" angle grinder with lots of cutting and grinding discs
7/8 cold chisel and 1/2 punch
750 rpm 1/2 drill (anything faster you will go through a lot of drill bits)
1/16 to 3/4 drill bit set
Hole Saw set
Welder capable of welding over 1/4" plate
7' - 2" x 3" x 3/16" Angle Iron
3' - 3" x 1" C Channel
5' - 2" x 6" x 3/16" Rectangular tubing
Now lets get started.
For a complete Word .doc file of this article click
This is a large file and takes a little time to load.
First step would to find a suitable donor like mine. It
doesn't have to look very pretty as long as the chassis is sound. Make sure
there isn't any frame damage and the front suspension isn't bent out of shape.
Next strip the truck down to nothing but the frame. We won't
be using much from the body so you can sell the parts to recoup some of the
purchase price. Save all the brake line fittings as you will need them later.
Remove the gas tanks and the crossmembers except the main support between the
front spring hangers. To remove the rivets I like to cut two slots in the head
the hit it with the chisel. This removes the head so you can use the punch to
remove the rest of the rivet
Here you can see the 3" rise that will be cut out.